A relatively new tourist destination, Belgrade isn’t always so easy on the eye. After a long and arduous journey from Zagreb (I recommend flying if you take this route!) our train headed slowly into the city, passing row after row of grey, communist blocks and huge, sprawling, traffic heavy roads. However, what Belgrade lacks in quaintness it makes up for in character. And it’s not all ugly, there are some beautiful leafy streets and relaxing parks as well as some magnificent buildings. With half the city seemingly under construction, this is a city that is most definitely on the up. Trendy bars can be found around every corner, boat bars line the riverside and top quality dining can be found for pretty low prices. Coupled with the friendliness of the locals, and its modern, energetic vibe, I imagine Belgrade will soon be a destination hot spot. One of its biggest draws for me was the modern, trendy places to eat and drink, and the quality of the food was exceptional. Here’s a run down of my favourites spots.
Word of warning, smoking is currently still allowed in all food and drink establishments, but they are all well ventilated so it’s not too off-putting!
Drink wine
Stroll through the relaxing Studentski park and down the steep, quaint street Višnjićeva, and you’ll find ‘Podrum Wine Art’, a great spot to try a vast selection of well chosen Serbian wines, as well as wines from all over the world. The choice by the glass is excellent, and they also have a small food menu, including cheese and ham platters. My burger was pretty cheap and very delicious. Elegantly decorated with a relaxing ambience, there is also a roof top terrace which is very popular at the weekend so booking is essential. Whether indoor or outdoor, this is the best spot for a beautiful glass of wine.
‘Podrum Wine Art’, Višnjićeva 7, open daily 9am-1am, Sunday 5pm-1am Tel +381 11 26 25 237
Buy wine
If any of the wines you’ve tried take your fancy, then the best place to purchase them is ‘Fino Vino’. A stylish wine shop with friendly staff, in the centre of town, they have a vast selection of Serbian wines and Rakia. They gave us a taste of Rakia, a fruit brandy usually made from plums, it’s pretty delicious and softer than you would imagine. I bought a bottle of ‘Lastar’ Pinot Noir that I had tasted over dinner one night, and it was a perfect example of a quality Pinot Noir with soft red fruit and deep mushroom flavours.
’Fino Vino’, Pop Lukina 6, open daily 10am-10pm
Eat pizza
Having lived in Italy for over seven years, I’ve become a bit of a pizza snob. I love the Neapolitan style pizza, and its not easy to find the genuine article. However, at the cute bar ‘Makadam’ you’ll find an authentic and absolutely delicious pizza. Primarily a cafe/bar they only serve a selection of three pizza types, but this focus is probably why they make them so well. Set on the corner of a cobbled, leafy street in a beautiful neighbourhood near the castle, Makadam is great place also to just stop for a coffee or beer. Their trendy concept store inside also offers an interesting selection of jewellery and beauty products from local producers.
’Makadam’, Kosančićev 20, open daily 9am-9pm
Eat Tapas
The still under construction area near the river boat port will soon be the place to be seen. With an entire strip, along the river, of fashionable, modern restaurants there is something to suit all tastes; from Italian to Japanese, most cuisines are covered. We chose ‘Ambar’, which specialises in Balkan tapas. With an appealing selection of both meat and vegetarian dishes, they were all delicious, and they also had an ample breakfast selection. Housed in a large, airy space with beautiful decor and a great cocktail list, this is perfect if you’re looking for a fresh, modern vibe. And if clubbing is your thing, then after you can head over the bridge and check out all the boats bars that line the riverside.
‘Ambar’, Karadjordjeva 2, open daily 10-2am
Dine in style
‘Klub Knjizevnika’ is full of old world charm. From the 19th century building, and its beautiful covered terrace, to the wonderful waiting staff providing old style service. Elegant and old-fashioned, and with delicious food and wine, this is popular with locals and the theatre crowd, given its proximity to the National Theatre. The relaxing terrace isn’t overcrowded and so is perfect for enjoying a long, leisurely dinner, and you feel like you’re going back in time. Our waiter made the night complete with his friendly, helpful attitude and efficient, classic serving style. My duck breast was perfectly pink, and my partner’s steak was tender and cooked perfectly. This is the place to come for fine food and atmosphere.
’Klub Knjizevnika’, Francuska 7, open daily 12pm-1am, Saturday 12pm-12am
Drink beer
What holiday is complete without sampling the local craft beer, and ‘Samo Pivo is a cool spot to do it. Its quite hard to find, but when you see a broken escalator leading up to a dubious looking passage then you’re in the right spot. Head up the stairs and on the right you’ll find this studenty style beer house. With an industrial style decor, they also have a large beer garden and they have ample beers on tap to choose from, including some pretty tasty local offerings. If beer’s your thing then head here.
’Samo Pivo’, Balkanska 13, open daily 12pm-12am, Friday and Saturday 12pm-1am
