With its pastel buildings and striking spires jutting up into the sky against a backdrop of stunning mountains, visiting Salzburg feels like you have been transported back in time, and it’s easy to forget the rest of the world exists.  With its quaint cobbled streets of the Old Town, perfectly manicured gardens of the Mirabell palace, fresh clean air scented only by the beautiful flowers blooming on every street, and a looming fortress sat on a hill guarding this picture perfect city, it’s not hard to see how such beautiful music was born here.  Whilst the city is small enough to just wander around and happen upon its hidden treasures naturally, here is a rundown of some of my must-dos when visiting this magical place.

VISIT Museum of Modern Art

 

Featuring a variety of art from the 20th and 21st century, as well as regular temporary exhibitions, the museum itself is housed in a modern, marble clad building set on four levels. Accessible from the Old Town, you can wander around the exhibits or you can take the elevator straight up to the top floor which is home to a beautiful restaurant complete with terrace, which boasts breathtaking views of Salzburg’s striking rooftops, domes and spires and of the mountains beyond.

Instead of getting the elevator back down, head out into the woodland area behind the museum, which feels like stepping straight into the countryside.  The main path takes you on a relaxing walk to the Hohensalzburg Fortress, where you can get the funicular back down to the city.  We opted instead to wander down on foot, and walking along a steep, narrow cobbled path, passing cute little Austrian chalets en route, as well as appreciating plentiful views of the city below, was thoroughly enjoyable.

EAT MAIER’S

 

The adorable cobbled street Steingasse is worth a wander down just for the quiet, tranquil atmosphere it exudes.  But what’s better is that at the end of the street there is the fabulous restaurant ‘Maier’s‘.   Small and intimate with only a handful of tables, it has a great atmosphere as well as friendly and helpful staff.  Their regular menu is small but perfectly formed with a strong emphasis on steak, but they also have a daily changing menu with an interesting selection such as shrimp with caramelized watermelon or seafood pasta.  I opted for a steak, and it was succulent, tender and utterly delicious. Frequented mainly by locals, this is the perfect escape from the schnitzel based tourist restaurants in the Old Town.  Booking advisable. Steingasse 61 T: +43 662 879379

DRINK Köchelverzeichnis

 

I challenge you to try saying the name of this bar after a few glasses of wine!  This gem of a wine bar is also located on Steingasse, and is an experience not to be missed.  Tucked away in  a corner, the interior is like that of a medieval kitchen.  A large communal table sits in the middle, with a couple of high tables next to the tiny windows, all lit mainly by the flicker of candlelight.  The wine choices are scrawled in chalk around the room, and whilst the owner isn’t overly personable she does eventually warm to you, and she’s part of the charm.  To accompany your wine she will fix you up a cold platter, or you can order her dish of the day which she whips up in her minute kitchen behind the bar.  The wine is delicious and the atmosphere indescribable, this is one of my favourite spots in Salzburg. Steingasse 27 Open 5-11pm

STAY VILLA AUERSPERG

 

Whilst the Hotel Sacher exudes opulence and luxury, Villa Auersperg is a boutique hotel that offers the more personal touch.  Located five minutes from the Mirabell gardens, and a 15 minute walk to the Old Town, this unique hotel makes a great base if you are looking for something a bit more original.  Its modern interior is stylish, and the rooms are spacious with fresh, bright bathrooms complete with eco products.  However, the best part of the hotel lies in its small garden and outdoor terrace which are perfect for relaxing in during the summer months.  The breakfast was plentiful and delicious, and they even served their own honey made from the hives in their garden. An oasis of calm in the midst of the city. Auerspergstraße 61 T: +43 662 889440 Rooms start from £130

 

SHOP THE OLD TOWN

 

Salzburg definitely isn’t a fashion hot spot, but the old town is beautiful and quaint and you can happily pass an afternoon wandering its streets.  Getreidegasse is the main street with major fashion shops as well as more independent galleries and craft shops.  The street itself, however, is the main draw with its quirky architecture.  Arcaded passageways run under the tall, narrow houses and lead into hidden courtyards or carry on through to the next streets, and the ornate wrought iron street signs hanging over every shop create an eye catching image.  Not to be missed also is Mozart’s house at number 9; inside you can wander around the house, which has been recreated to be just as it was when Mozart himself lived here, and the museum is dedicated to his time spent in Salzburg, featuring letters, portraits and even some of his musical instruments.

EAT CAKE CAFÉ TOMASELLI

 

No trip to Austria would be complete without some coffee and cake, and Café Tomaselli is the perfect spot to partake of both.  A traditional Austrian coffee house, the inside is all dark wood and cabinets full of cakes on display.  Smartly dressed waiters waft about giving the place an air of old world splendour, and in summer months the terrace overlooking the square is a great spot for people watching.  Do as the Austrians do, have a giant, healthy breakfast first thing and then indulge in a big slice of cake for lunch.  Mouth-wateringly delicious, this is life as it should be lived. Alter Markt 9 T: +43 662 8444880

INDULGE SKY BAR AND RESTAURANT

 

Discovering one evening the Sky Bar on the 6th floor at Hotel Imlauer was an unexpected delight, especially when the storm that had been brewing let loose and sent lightning that lit up the sky, a wonderful sight to watch through the floor to ceiling windows that surround the restaurant.  Upmarket and stylish, the view from the bar area is of the Old Town and the mountains and there is a narrow outside terrace, perfect for enjoying a cocktail and watching the sun go down.  With an excellent menu and a good selection of wine, our meal here was delicious.  Booking advisable. Rainerstraße 6 +43 662 88978666

 

PRETEND TO BE ROYAL MIRABELL PALACE

 

Whilst it is possible to visit the palace, the true attraction lies in its magnificent gardens.  Beautifully manicured and landscaped, the gardens make for a nice wander to enjoy the sculptures and exquisitely arranged flowerbeds.  There is also a hedge theatre that hosts various concerts and events. And if you’re a Sound of Music fan you will recognise the Pegasus fountain and the surroundings from the film.  Just don’t start singing!

LAST BUT NOT LEAST PETERSFRIEDHOF

 

Petersfriedhof translates to St.Peter’s cemetery, and is an incredible site to visit.  Nestled under the rock face that leads up to the Fortress, the design and architecture is spectacular, and if you’re a Sound of Music fan this is a must, as parts of the film were set here.  The Christian architecture has a distinctly gothic feel, with caves under the rock face and intricate and unusual tombstones crafted from iron, all surrounded by stunning flowers and landscaped gardens. The atmosphere is both magical and beautiful and St Peter’s Abbey itself is spectacular and outrageously opulent; the ceiling alone will take your breath away. Sankt-Peter-Bezirk 1