Lombardia and its touristic draw immediately bring to mind the austere and fashion conscious Milan, or the cinematic beauty of the lush, green hills and snow-capped mountains of Lake Como, casting their shadows over tranquil waters and clusters of picturesque villages. However, nestled in these hills above the lake there is a hidden splendour and that is the town of Bergamo. A small city sitting in the foothills of the Alps it has a beautiful, medieval ‘città alta’ surrounded by Venetian walls that enclose a bewitching, cobbled city. Its fresh alpine air, fine cuisine and breathtaking views across the mountains can offer you a tiny slice of mountain style living.
Spectacular view of the mountains from the old town
A few months ago my dad and I decided to plan a long May weekend in Italy, and before I had chance to decide our destination my dad had already booked his cheap Ryan Air flight from Manchester to Bergamo with the reasoning that it was relatively near Milan and therefore it would serve any destination of our choosing. Only an hour’s drive to Verona, Milan or Como, and two hours from Venice it certainly does provide an accessible airport to commence your trip from. However, our destination turned out to be the Ligurian Riveria; at three and a half hours drive (an incredible journey passing alpine villages and skirting through piedmonte) and with my dad’s flight not arriving until the evening we decided the best course of action would be a stop over in Bergamo, not realising that we would discover one night wasn’t actually enough in this captivating city.
Narrow cobbled streets of the ‘città alta’
So we decided to meet in Bergamo, and already being based in Italy I opted to set off early, giving me a chance to explore the city. An hour by train from Milan, I was a little confused when exiting the station. Where are the mountains, where is the fairytale town perched atop a hill, where is the rickety funicular that takes me up into the hills, and where the hell are the taxis that can take me to any of the above! I popped into the station shop and discovered the funicular takes you from the modern part of town (città bassa) up to the medieval town (a good option if you’re looking for cheaper accommodation in the modern town), and therefore from the station the best option is to hop on the 1A bus which will take you straight up to the ‘città alta’ (you can buy your bus ticket from the station shop).
‘Alta’ means high, and after passing through the modern city (which incidentally despite being modern is still home to some lovely 19th century architecture) the bus started winding its way slowly up the curved road leading to the città alta, and with every rise and curve the view became ever more breathtaking as the flat, modern city gave way to an expanse of greenery and mountain views, with pastel coloured renaissance villas lining the road up to the main square.
Largo Colle Aperto is the entrance to the mainly pedestrianised town where all the buses unload, and here and on Via delle Mura you will also find parking. Upon arrival I felt a little peckish and I was soon offered a sneak preview of the culinary prowess of Bergamo as I stopped off for a delicious coffee and cake at the old fashioned and atmospheric cafe ‘La Marianna.’ Offering leisurely table service by suited waiters you can sit back and relax, or you can opt for the cheaper and more Italian version by paying first and standing at the bar (say al banco when you order at the cash desk). There is also a restaurant upstairs but I would recommend stopping only at the ground floor pasticceria for either cake or for one of their delicious ice creams.
From outside ‘La Marianna’ you will see a sign leading uphill for the ‘Orto Botanico’, and these botanical gardens are well worth visiting, not only for the views across Bergamo but also for the tranquility you will find, as well as the beauty of the plants and flowers.
View over the city from the footpath leading out of the gardens.
Sit back and relax in the gardens
The gardens climb up a steep hill and so you will wend your way up steps and footpaths, plants and trees either side of you. At the top there are exquisite views as well as a few benches to relax your weary legs upon and take in the panorama in front of you. Access is free and it is open from March-November 10-12, 14-17 with later openings until 7pm in the summer months.
Striking cathedral, with an impressive 14th century baptistry
Adjacent to ‘La Marianna’ is the second funicular line that takes you even higher and further into the hills, ending at San Vigilio where there is a castle converted into a park offering spectacular views across the mountains. Heading back to the centre of the small but perfectly formed città alta you will discover the narrow cobbled streets offer plentiful opportunities for shopping and fine dining. Bergamo has a distinctly upmarket vibe, and the restaurants reflect this. The beautiful, main square of ‘Piazza Vecchia’, sandwiched between the impressive cathedral and town hall, offers opportunities for casual drinks or aperitivo whilst watching the world go by. There is also the possibility of joining a walking tour of Bergamo, or along the Venetian walls that wrap around the centre. For more information visit the tourist information website.
Accommodation
Old fashioned but charming decor in the large deluxe room
Perfectly located near the main square, we stayed at the cute boutique style ‘Hotel Piazza Vecchia‘.
Modern and luxurious bathroom
With spacious rooms and big beds, it provided a lovely base and a nice opportunity to stay somewhere independent and original. I was lucky enough to get a free upgrade to a deluxe room, and whilst it was a little dark this was quite refreshing given the heat outside, and the view of rooftops and trees was very tranquil. My dad had a room at the front which was smaller and overlooked the street, but it was well soundproofed and so this wasn’t a problem. Breakfast was simple but enjoyable, and if you want to eat outside there is a small terrace with a couple of tables. It was quite expensive for the B and B style feel to the hotel, but the ‘città alta’ is generally quite costly, and the location was fantastic and so overall I felt it offered good value for money, and is an excellent choice if you wish to stay in the heart of things. Classic room in low season starts at €145 leading up to €180 in high season
Alternative accommodation
Relais San Lorenzo – If you are looking for super luxury, then this five star is the one to go for. Clean modern decor, comfortable rooms with sumptuous beds, the hotel also boasts a wellness spa consisting of a Finnish sauna and a Turkish bath. Rooms start from €225 in low season.
Hotel Petronilla – Located in the lower part of town, you are not as well positioned for enjoying the historic città alta but it offers the opportunity to explore the rest of the city, and is very handy for the train station. A chic and modern hotel with welcoming owners, the rooms are furnished with modern artworks creating an individual and eclectic feel to the hotel, and there is a gorgeous outside courtyard for relaxing, as well as a small gym and sauna. Rooms start from €180
La Valletta Relais – A simple B and B providing good value for money it is located on a hillside a 20 minute walk from the città alta, providing a scenic and tranquil option for your stay as well as offering a good base for hiking the nearby trails. Beautiful views from the terrace where breakfast is also served, as well as friendly and attentive staff and the advantage of free on site parking. Rooms start from €75
B and B San Lorenzo – Good value B and B in the centre of the città alta with cute rooms furnished shabby chic style. Family run with an accommodating hostess the accommodation is a renovated house creating a very homely and personal feel, although each room has a private bathroom. If you prefer a more authentic and personal experience then I would recommend this. Rooms start from €85
Eating and Drinking
The food in Bergamo is excellent, the local specialities to this area are polenta, the aromatic taleggio cheese and the deliciously refreshing champagnesque Franciacorta. Food here is traditional and of a high quality, wandering the streets of the città alta you will be enticed by shop windows full of delicious delicacies, as well as classy restaurants beckoning you in to indulge in their home cooked fare.
Shop windows tantalise you with their food displays.
The smaller deli style restaurant offers more intimate dining.
We ate at ‘Da Mimmo’, a firmly established restaurant popular with the locals. They have a restaurant as well as a deli across the road with a cute cafe attached to it (Via B.Colleoni, 17) The restaurant is large and has a lovely outdoor area at the back, and whilst the food is simple it is good quality and they have excellent pizzas. They have a good wine list, so good in fact that they had one of my favourite wines Taurasi, and so controversially we opted against a local wine and decided to partake in a bottle of ‘Terredora Dipaolo 2010′; elegant, smooth and with delicious hints of spice and wild berries this wine was absolute heaven.
Fine wines and an atmospheric terrace make Al Donizetti a good stopping point
Further down the road there is ‘Al Donizetti’ (Via Gombito, 17A), the food is perhaps not as good quality but the outdoor covered terrace housed in a former market is fabulous, and it is worth stopping here for lunch or dinner just for this. Personally my preference would be to go for a plate of ham and cheese and then sit back and relax over a bottle of one of their delicious wines.
Atmospheric pub style establishment
When you feel that you’re a bit fed up of wine, there is a cool beer house, Ca del Fasa, on the main street (Via B.Colleoni 1/B). With a good selection of Italian and foreign beers and large windows opening out onto the street, this is a great place to stop at for a quick drink.
Agnello D’Oro – Via Gombito 22 – Nice restaurant attached to a hotel with a lovely outdoor eating area. Serving local food such as stewed beef with polenta or risotto with porcini mushrooms, they also offer a set lunch menu for €15.
Trattoria Parietti – Via C.Beltrami 52 – Atmospheric and traditional restaurant popular with the locals, here you will pay substantially less than nearby restaurants. The food is fresh and local, and the menu changes regularly, highly recommended and booking is essential.
Baretto di San Vigilio – Via al Castello San Vigilio 1 – Gorgeous location above the old town and near the castle, with a mesmerizing view from the outdoor seating area. Food is high quality with a good wine list. Booking advisable.
Osteria della Birra – Piazza Mascheroni 1/c – Great place for craft beer, attracting both tourists and locals. Casual, young and convivial atmosphere, can also find simple sandwiches and salads.
Da Vittorio – Via Cantalupa 17, Brusaporto – Super posh michelin starred restaurant set in a beautiful country house 10km from Bergamo. Offers tasting menus including a fish option at €180, only go here if you are ready to part with a lot of money. Booking essential.
Pozzo Bianco – Via Porta Dipinta 30/B – Another beer house this is a great option in the città bassa. With typical beer house style decor this is very much a pub and you can find a vast array of Belgium and German beers, they also offer simple food such as pizza and burgers.
Osteria Al Gigianca – Via Broseta 113 – Another option in the città bassa, here they pride themselves on using eco-friendly products and organic meat. Located slightly out of the centre it attracts a mostly local crowd, delicious food and friendly staff. Booking advisable.
