Agatha Christie was one of my grandad’s favourite authors. I remember he would read her entire collection and then just start again from the beginning. I have fond childhood memories of Saturday afternoons spent watching Poirot adaptations on the T.V (he was never really a Miss Marple fan), and so on a recent visit to Istanbul it seemed particularly fitting to stay in the hotel where she apparently wrote ‘Murder on the Orient Express’, and the style and feel of the hotel brought to mind that era perfectly, without skimping on luxury or breaking the bank.
Whilst Istanbul is home to an impressive array of luxury hotels, the ‘Pera Palace‘ is one of its oldest. Rich in history it was built in 1892 to host guests arriving into the city on the Orient Express, and it has welcomed numerous literary greats since, such as Ernest Hemmingway, as well as other glamourous figures such as Greta Garbo , over the years. As with many grand hotels it fell into disrepair, but luckily extensive renovations were undertaken, which remained thankfully sympathetic to its original features, and in 2010 it opened its doors again.
We arrived late. Tired and weary after a delayed flight from Cappadocia, with a hint of altitude sickness to boot, we couldn’t wait to indulge in a bit of luxury. Entering the grand, opulent foyer we immediately felt relaxed, and when we discovered we had been given an upgrade to a suite we were doubly relaxed. The hotel is home to Turkey’s oldest elevator, and whilst it is closed off for regular use, guests are taken up to their rooms in it after check-in which was a treat in itself. An old-style elevator with a little bench inside, what fun!
When we were shown our suite we could not believe it; this was no ordinary upgrade but something quite special. Each suite in the hotel is based on a famous guest that used to frequent the hotel, with decor that reflects the style and personality of that person. Our suite paid homage to Celal Bayar, the third president of Turkey. The bedroom was the size of an apartment alone, with a couch and armchair to relax in, as well as a separate study area complete with an austere portrait of the President himself. The decor was traditional with rich dark wood furnishings and beautiful Turkish rugs, but it all felt very clean and fresh. All rooms have a Nespresso machine and kettle which always makes me very happy; it is a great blend of old world charm and modern convenience. The bathroom was beautifully luxurious with a free-standing roll top bath, separate shower and Bulgari products. It was a perfect blend of old and new, and the balcony overlooking the Bosphorus made the perfection complete.
The hotel also has a lovely spa area, where I enjoyed a fabulous massage one morning, and there is a small pool and sauna also. Downstairs overlooking the street there is a cute French patisserie with an enticing array of goodies to tempt you. In winter breakfast is served in the basement restaurant which is nothing special, but in summer you have the option to sit out on their terrace. But what I found really special about the hotel is the Tea Lounge. A gorgeously opulent room with chandeliers and glass domes adorning the ceilings, you can enjoy afternoon tea here whilst sat in plush velvet chairs, listening to the live pianist play beside you. If ever I felt close to being in Agatha Christie’s shoes it was then, and I hope she enjoyed it as much as I did.
Standard rooms start from £142 per night, my senior suite starts from £480 per night. More info available on their website www.perapalace.com, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No:52, 34430 Tepebaşı Beyoğlu/İstanbul. Tel +90 212 377 4000 Email info@perapalace.com
The area around the hotel is my favourite spot in Istanbul, with a plentiful array of bars and restaurants and cultural hot spots. Stay tuned for my next post where I will guide you to all the best places to go when you visit this fabulous city!
